What is garment dye, and why does it fit into a timeless wardrobe?

(Wo-)mansplaining: Garment Dye

What is it?

Type the term “garment dye” into Google Translate and you’ll get “garment dyed.” Duh, that’s a bit of an oversimplification—after all, isn’t all coloured clothing essentially dyed? That’s almost correct, but not quite. Often, coloured garments are made from dyed fabrics or knitted from dyed yarns. The dyeing of fabrics and yarns takes place before the final garment is produced.

And that’s where the difference lies: if a ready-to-wear garment is dyed only after the manufacturing process is complete, we call it “garment-dyed.” “Garment dyed.” Good enough for the newspaper: Google Translate nailed it.

How can you tell the difference?

If a garment is garment-dyed, you’ll notice subtle colour variations, especially around the seams. In areas where the fabric is double-layered and/or quilted, relatively less dye is “absorbed.”

Another telltale sign: white care labels on the inside have taken on a subtle colour cast. The decorative stitching on topstitched seams also has a slightly different shade, because the thread sometimes “takes the dye” just a little differently than the fabric, even though the stitching thread has the same composition as the fabric.

Designers can also play with this: dark contrasting stitching or stitching made from 100% synthetic thread does not take on the color and retains its original hue.

In addition to “regular” garment-dye dyes, there are also “garment pigment dye” dyes that fade a little more with each wash.

A similar example from fashion history: the very first denim was dyed with indigo, a 100% plant-based dye that faded naturally over time. Just like jeans, garment-dyed clothing has a casual look, but it’s usually more subtle.

Is it sustainable?

Sustainability is a complex concept—on the one hand, it’s about longevity and timelessness; on the other, it’s about the impact on people and the environment.

The biggest advantage of garment dyeing: fabric scraps are effectively avoided by producing only what is needed, using undyed fabrics whose leftover yards can be reused for future garment-dyed items. What’s more: given the current “mountain of clothing,” we at PLEIN PUBLIQUE already source our inventory sparingly and “made-to-order.”

Once it’s gone, it’s gone—too bad, so sad ; )

Whether a garment-dyed wash is eco-friendly depends not only on the dye used. Water consumption and the way the used water is returned to the water cycle also play a role.

What applies to virtually all dyes in the textile industry these days is that they’re constantly being improved and optimized to minimize environmental damage.

Wow, learned something new! Want to add our garment-dyed pieces to your personal collection of forever essentials? They’re waiting for you in the shop!